INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE

Identification of a higher C-S lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis in volunteers with unpleasant axillary odour
Grimaldi C, Gilardeau S, Verzeaux L, Guedj O, Richer S, Laspoussas A, Le Guillou M, Muchico H, Aymard E and Closs B
Excessive and unpleasant odours that emanate from the skin can induce bromhidrosis and substantially impair a person's quality of life. Enzymatic pathways generating unpleasant odours are well detailed, and among them, the C-S lyase is one of the enzymes involved in the conversion of non-volatile precursors into thiol-type malodorous volatile molecules such as 3M3SH. This study aimed to investigate the variation of axillary odour intensity correlated with Staphylococcus (S.) hominis C-S lyase activity within a group of volunteers after a physical activity.
Scalp condition improvement with botanical extracts possessing chemical and physical antioxidant activity
Marsh JM, Li L, Knowles S, Locker KCS, Pearson K, Bacon R, Kozak K, Laughlin T and Schwartz JR
Oxidative stress is implicated in scalp and hair health manifesting in several ways, including skin barrier, hair retention, healthy hair appearance and scalp sensation. We previously linked markers of oxidative damage to dandruff and skin barrier impairment and have linked key anti-dandruff technologies to the resolution of these issues. Here we expand the therapeutic space demonstrating many botanical extracts offer protective benefits against ROS stress via both chemical and biological antioxidant mechanisms.
The kinetics of moisture sorption by hair
Breakspear S, Evans T, Frueh P, Neu A, Noecker B, Popescu C and Uellner Q
The rate process of moisture sorption by human hair has been analysed in order to hints for helping deepen knowledge on the hair structure and to explain the behaviour of hair in response to moisture.
Insights into structural and proteomic alterations related to pH-induced changes and protein deamidation in hair
Adav SS, Wu ARYL and Ng KW
The hair shaft is often exposed to shampoo and haircare products that have unknown or varying pH levels. These products contain a combination of surfactants and other active ingredients to treat the hair or the scalp. As amphoteric proteins, hair keratins have limited buffering capacity, so variations in pH can have multifaceted impacts on them. However, there is limited knowledge about how pH affects keratins and keratin-associated proteins (KAPs). Therefore, this study aims to examine the effects of varying pH levels (pH 3-pH 12) on hair structure and analyse consequent alterations in the hair proteome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics.
A new ex vivo human skin model for the topographic and biological analysis of cosmetic formulas
Peno-Mazzarino L, Jeanneton O, Scalvino SA, Percoco G, Beauchef G, Nizard C and Pays K
Existing methods to evaluate skin care products suffer limitations. This is the case for ex vivo skin explants, a first-choice 3D model. While essential to analyse mid- to long-term biological effects, this classical model hinders assessing microrelief variations. To circumvent these limitations, we developed an ex vivo PERFused EXplant setup (Perfex) that maintains the outer skin surface in the open air, closely mirroring physiological conditions.
Moisturizing and antioxidant factors of skin barrier restoring cream with shea butter, silkflo and vitamin E in human keratinocyte cells
Mohanan R, Jose SP, Sreevallabhan S, Jalam JK, Tilwani J, Jagmag T, Abhyankar M and George SM
Moisturizers are integral to daily skincare routines, reflecting the increasing trend among people towards cosmetic products, particularly for skin care. They significantly contribute to preserving skin health, particularly by regulating the epidermal barrier and moisture levels within the skin. This study aims to explore the moisturizing and antioxidant effect of skin barrier restoring cream Moiz MM (MZ) with shea butter, silkflo and vitamin E by investigating its protective effect against oxidative stress-induced cellular damage and therapeutic mechanisms in human keratinocytes cells (HaCaT).
Estimating hair density with XGBoost
Wang YF, Hsu MH, Wang MY and Lin JW
Hair density estimation is crucial in dermatology and trichology; however, manual counting is time-consuming and error-prone. Although automated approaches have been developed using image processing, neural networks, and deep learning, creating a robust and widely applicable method remains challenging. This study explored the use of XGBoost to estimate hair density with the aim of developing a more accurate and versatile approach.
Micellar solubility and co-solubilization of fragrance raw materials in sodium dodecyl sulfate and polysorbate 20 surfactant systems
Tilghman C, Li SK and Spaulding LA
The aim of this work was to investigate the solubility and co-solubilization of fragrance raw materials (FRMs) in sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and polysorbate 20 (P20) surfactant micellar systems, which can advance our knowledge of multi-solute micellar solubilization and fragrance olfactory performance from product matrices containing the surfactants.
Correction to "Chondroitin/dermatan sulphate proteoglycan, desmosealin, showing affinity to desmosomes"
Grading facial aging: Comparing the clinical assessments made by three dermatologists with those obtained by an AI-based scoring system that analyses selfie pictures. A focus on Chinese subjects of both genders
Wang W, Flament F, Wang H, Ye C, Jiang R, Houghton J and Liu W
The objective of this study is to assess the correspondence, in live conditions, between clinical gradings of facial aging signs by three dermatologists and those afforded by an automatic AI-based algorithm that analyses smartphones' selfie images of Chinese subjects.
Regulation of dermal circadian pathways by a novel topical formulation
DeHaven C, Wheeler S, Langerveld A and Johns CB
Skin health is impacted by a wide range of intrinsic and extrinsic factors (J Dermatol Sci, 2017, 85, 152), including those that impact circadian rhythm, such as sleep disruption (Textbook of Aging Skin, 2016), UV (Biomed Aging Pathol, 2013, 3, 161) and blue light (Int J Cosmet Sci, 2019, 41, 558). Disruption of the skin's endogenous circadian balance, even by a consistently late bedtime, has deleterious effects on multiple measurements of skin health, including hydration, skin barrier protection, microbiome counts and skin regeneration, among others (Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 2022, 15, 1051). Skin repair processes occur at night and help to maintain important aspects of skin health (FEBS Lett, 2021, 595, 2413). Interest is increasing in the development of topical products that help restore proper circadian function. This study demonstrates that a proprietary topical formulation regulates new and established gene and protein biomarkers of circadian entrainment and circadian rhythm, demonstrating the product's potential to maintain appropriate dermal diurnal balance.
Anti-ageing mechanism of topical bioactive ingredient composition on skin based on network pharmacology
Feifei W, Wenrou S, Jinyue S, Qiaochu D, Jingjing L, Jin L, Junxiang L, Xuhui L, Xiao L and Congfen H
To elucidate the anti-ageing mechanism of the combination of eight ingredients on the skin from a multidimensional view of the skin.
A review of artificial sebum formulations, their compositions, uses and physicochemical characteristics
Rosik N, Preece JA, Fryer PJ, McRobbie I and Zhang ZJ
Sebum is a complex mixture of skin lipids responsible for lubrication, moisture retention and skin protection from external factors such as bacteria and fungi. The physicochemical properties of natural sebum are not well understood and are not easily accessible. Artificial sebum is widely used for sebum-related research such as dermal bioaccessibility, fingerprint production, dermatology, removal and sebum studies. It was found that the composition of artificial sebum affects the bioaccessibility of metals and drugs as well as the growth of some strains of bacteria. Squalene present in sebum was also found to be responsible for creating yellow stains on fabrics, whereas an increased concentration of fatty acids and triglycerides can lead to higher malodour of fabrics. Moreover, sebum and artificial sebum are poorly characterized with only 20 of 81 formulations characterized by certain techniques such as differential scanning calorimetry, nuclear magnetic resonance and thin-layer chromatography. This article reviews the artificial sebum formulations reported in the open literature between 1965 and 2023. We have discussed the compositions, uses and characterization techniques of artificial sebum used in the previous work and compared their properties to those of human sebum. A total of 81 artificial sebum formulations were found across the literature with 17 new formulations identified. The artificial sebum composition varies greatly between publications and there is no consistent formulation. There is a wide range of chemicals that are used as the main components of artificial sebum. We have highlighted the effect of chemical composition and individual compounds on the overall properties of the artificial sebum reported, and recommend that there is a great potential for creating personalized cosmetics and home care products once the characteristics of sebum are better understood.
The prebiotic effects of fructooligosaccharides enhance the growth characteristics of Staphylococcus epidermidis and enhance the inhibition of Staphylococcus aureus biofilm formation
Shao L, Li T, Yang S, Ma L, Cai B, Jia Q, Jiang H, Bai T and Li Y
Oligosaccharides have been shown to enhance the production of short chain fatty acids (SCFAs) by gut probiotics and regulate gut microbiota, to improve intestinal health. Recent research indicates that oligosaccharides may also positively impact skin microbiota by selectively promoting the growth of skin commensal bacteria and inhibiting pathogenic bacteria. However, the specific metabolic and regulatory mechanisms of skin commensal bacteria in response to oligosaccharides remain unclear. This study aims to explore the influence of four oligosaccharides on the growth and metabolism of Staphylococcus epidermidis and further identify skin prebiotics that can enhance its probiotic effects on the skin.
Application of the upcycling trend using ultrafiltrate of water from the production of collagen from fish skin in hair care cosmetics
Igielska-Kalwat J, Kilian-Pięta E and Siedlecki M
The aim of the research problem of the article was to try to popularize the upcycling trend in the production of sustainable cosmetics and to confirm their effectiveness. The development of recycled raw materials is a new discovery in the chemical industry. Manufacturers emphasize the production of more environmentally friendly raw materials. Conscious consumers choose cosmetics whose production is based on sustainable development. Instead of throwing away waste from various industries, let us use it to produce active substances used in hair cosmetics. The production of the collagen series was created in accordance with the principles of upcycling, which involves obtaining collagen water, which is waste generated during the production of supplements. The main goal of the work was to learn cosmetic recipes for styling, washing and conditioning hair based on collagen waste, as well as to compare the results of people using the product in question. The aim of the study was also to demonstrate the effectiveness of the treatment in preventing split ends and hair breakage, usually caused by mechanical stress (brushing), as well as to confirm the effectiveness of other tests. The article presents procedures and parameters confirming the effectiveness of treatment with the tested hair products. The following tests were carried out: hair thickness and density, colour uniformity, shine factor and scalp hydration. All parameters numerically confirmed the beneficial effects of products containing collagen water used in hair care.
The effect of degeneration of elastic fibres on loss of elasticity and wrinkle formation
Kondo S, Ozawa N and Sakurai T
Skin elasticity, which is vital for a youthful appearance, depends on the elastic fibres in the dermis. However, these fibres deteriorate with ageing, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Changes that occur in the elastic fibres in living human skin and the relationship between elastic fibres and the state of the skin surface remain unclear. Therefore, it is necessary to verify the relationship between elastic fibres and skin elasticity. In this study, we investigated the association of the elastic fibre structure with skin elasticity and stratum corneum protein content in living human skin.
Development and characterization of topical formulation for maintenance therapy containing sorbitan monostearate with and without PEG-100-stearate
Schoenfelder H, Wiedemann Y and Lunter DJ
Basic therapy is an integral part of the treatment of chronic skin diseases. However, the formulation of skin products should be analysed with respect to the physical stability and tolerance by the patients before applying them to diseased skin. In particular, the suitability of the formulation for use on damaged skin should be taken into consideration so that no exacerbation of the condition is caused.
Thermoporometry measurements of human hair via differential scanning calorimetry
Habe T, Inoue S, Breakspear S, Noecker B and Popescu C
Hair fibres possess an inherently porous structure, which is affected by physical and chemical agents from the environment, as well as those from cosmetic treatments. The present work aims to investigate the potential of a calorimetric method for evaluating the changes of hair porosity, in terms of pore size and size distribution.
Microalgae-based sunscreens as green and sustainable cosmetic products
Najafi A, Heidary M, Martinez RM, Baby AR and Morowvat MH
Recently, microalgal biotechnology has attained great acceptance among various researchers and industries for the green and sustainable production of different bioactive compounds. They provide multiple metabolites and molecules, making them an ideal candidate for cosmetic formulators and cosmeceutical companies. Nevertheless, numerous microalgae strains have never been studied for their pharmaceutical, nutritional and cosmeceutical purposes. Even less, only some have been cultivated on a large scale for bioactive compound production. Here, we have studied the cosmetic and cosmeceutical potentials of different microalgal strains for sunscreen as adjuvants and boosters in a green, carbon-neutral and sustainable platform. Other bioactive compounds were exploited, and the available products in the market and the published patents were also reviewed. From our review, it will be possible to combine the fundamental and practical aspects of microalgal biotechnology toward a greener and more sustainable future for the cosmetic/cosmeceutical areas of the photoprotection scenario.
SCAWA scales: A new digital tool for wrinkles clinical grading based on AI
Rengot J, Prestat-Marquis E, Aime I, Campos JR, Camel E and François G
Clinical assessment of wrinkle depth is essential for efficacy evaluations of anti-ageing products. Standardized photographic scales, representative of different wrinkle depths are often used by experts to assign subjects reliable grades. These tools, based on real pictures, usually exist as hard copies (printed books or sheets) for in vivo gradings. Our project aims at developing a methodology to create digital standardized computer-generated scales, allowing photograph and real-life gradings, and providing raters with greater comfort, accessibility, and flexibility in their construction, thanks to the artificial intelligence significative contribution.
Evaluation of the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of Prosopis juliflora fruit extract as a novel multifunctional bioactive ingredient and its potential applicability in pro-ageing and skin colour harmonization cosmetic products
da Silva TL, Pinheiro JGO, de Moura ATC, Maia Neto CG, Correia FLP, Comin MSK, da Silva RCF, de Araújo SVF, Barreto SMAG, Oliveira AS, Damasceno GAB and Ferrari M
Prosopis juliflora, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of P. juliflora fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties.